Today's soundtrack:
"Unicorn Loves Deer" by Alamo Race Track
I may have mentioned that we get a fair few guests here in the Ivory Tower. At last count we've had 18 or 20 people visit in just over one year. Some of those visits were short one- or two-nighters, while others felt too damned short at a mere 2 1/2 weeks (BFF!). Most folks, when they come to stay with us, have plans to head for the highlands as soon as humanly possible. And why not? The highlands are beautiful, stunning, and everything you ever thought they were, but with way more sheep than you imagined.
But there's an undeniable charm to this little corner of Fife, a corner often passed through on the way to somewhere more interesting. Well, if you're lucky and/or clever enough to spend more than just a few hours driving in and around Anstruther, your own transplanted Canadian has compiled a list of places you should visit. NB: copious amounts of ale were consumed during the research of this blog. All part of the superior service you've come to expect from the folks here at The Spaniard and the Edwardian.
1) The Anstruther Fish Bar.
Now, the Spaniard prefers The Wee Chippy, but in my opinion the best fish and chips to be had are at the Anstruther Fish Bar. But be warned, when you order a fish supper, they give you the entire fish. And a haddock is not a particularly tiny fish. So, if you're anything like me, order the children's fish supper. It's half a haddock and chips, which is still a lot, but leaves enough room for Brattesani Ice Cream (also served at the restaurant). Priorities, people.
2) The Dreel Tavern.
In Anster Wester, this pub has some of the best atmosphere in town (a close runner-up being the Ship Tavern in Anster Easter) as well as the best ales. There's a new addition out back, but the main part of the pub is still in the same 17th-century building its been in... well... since the 17th century. Skip beer with dinner at the Anstruther Fish Bar. Instead, pop over for a pint of the Flying Scotsman. Or Ossian. Or any real ale on tap.
3) The Isle of May.
Okay, it's not exactly in the East Neuk, but it's only accessible from here so it goes on the list. The May Princess (if you're a student, show your ID and get the concession rate) runs a tour out to the Isle of May, which is a National Nature Reserve. Just make sure to email a day or two in advance to reserve a spot on the boat. While we tourists can only pop onto the island of a few hours at a time, the researchers that live there during the spring and summer keep a great blog full of all the comings and goings of the various flora and fauna. Just keep an eye out for ornery terns. And wear a hat.
4) The Coastal Path.
Also not exactly in Anstruther, but accessible from it. In fact, the path runs right through the town.. and every other town on the East Neuk. From Cellardyke, it's a lovely 3 mile walk to Crail, past pigs (and piglets!), sheep, goats, and a few rather crotchety cows. Once in Crail, stop off at Maggies on High Street for some good, non-touristy fare. A walk from Anster Wester leaves you in Pittenweem after about a mile, which is just long enough to justify stopping at the Cocoa Tree for a hot chocolate. If it's your first time at the Cocoa Tree, try either the white chocolate hot chocolate or the caliente hot chocolate. Remember, you just walked a mile, and it's a mile back to Anstruther, so you might as well have that slice of chocolate cake, too.
If you walk this with the Spaniard, be forewarned: there are snails and Miguel waxes very nostalgic about his Tía Carmina's caracoles in spicy hot sauce. He's even threatened to go out snail-hunting (is it really a hunt, though? They don't move very fast and no weapons are needed. More like snail-picking, really), but I've already told him there's no way I'm eating caracoles. Never going to happen.
5) The Haven.
I cannot forget to mention the local. Good food, good beer, and lovely people. I cannot yet vouch for their chowder (a smoked haddock and leek concoction), which isn't a true cullen skink as I understand it, but everything else I've ever eaten there has been pretty tasty.
6) Cambo Gardens.
Something the Lady J would love. There's a stunning walled garden with a little bit of everything and more varieties of roses than I ever thought possible. There's even a lovely little stream (or a wee burn), a bridge, and a weeping willow. Or birch. See, I clearly needed Lady J to help me out. Stop off in the little cafe for some decent soup and sandwiches. True, it's a bit of a jaunt from Anstruther by bike, but it's easily accessible on the 95 bus.
7) Kingdom Route #2.
Yes, it's a dead sexy name for a 19 mile cycling route that travels inland from Anstruther, looping around the Secret Bunker, before returning back to Cellardyke and the coast. Comprised almost completely of relatively empty country roads, the route takes you past highland cows, Kellie Castle, fields of canola, a sleeply little hamlet or two, the odd pheasant, and miles of gorse and broom (sorry Mom!). While there's not a lot of traffic, the cars on the road do seem determined to break some sort of landspeed record, so use your better judgement.
8) Fence Collective.
While not usually publicized on their website, there's usually some sort of Fence thing happening in and around the East Neuk. Keep an eye on the local bulletin board - a set of doors near the Anstruther Fish Bar, plastered with posters of events. Last week, King Creosote played over at the Ship Tavern. This week, there's another Fence-related gig over at the Anster Wester Hall. On August 9th, it's the Anster Mustered right in the harbour (well, not in the harbour, as that would pose a serious electrical risk, but on the middle pier). There's open-mic nights all over town, including at the Haven, and, if you time it right, you can sometimes hear some of the Collective practicing from their rehearsal flat/office on Dove Street in Cellardyke.
9) La Petite Epicerie.
It's easy to forget the longstanding links of the Auld Alliance between Scotland and France. After all, Mary Queen of Scots spent a fair bit of her life over there, and her mother - Marie de Guise - was French. And there are more than a few French loanwords present in Scots (garde l'eau - the warning when something liquid is about to get flung out the window - became gardyloo) And what better pretext do you need to stock up on cheeses, hams, pates, and quiches? The shop is run by a kind and very patient couple who clearly have a real passion for good food. If you ask them, they'll even help you do up a picnic basket. Then simply jump on your bike, find a nice secluded bit of a farmland overlooking the sea and enjoy your bit of France in Scotland. Watch out for greedy seagulls. They have no shame.
There's a number of things not on this list simply because we've not done them yet. Kellie Castle, the Scottish Fisheries Museum, St. Andrews Cheese Company, and high tea at the Bakehouse have all been highly recommended, but we've just not had the chance to visit yet.
If you have any suggestions as to what the Spaniard and I should visit here in the East Neuk, let us know!
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