Today's soundtrack:
"Underwhelmed" by Sloan
In honour of the upcoming holidays, a Christmas Stocking pattern:
Inspired by striped pattern of jennieowen’s “George and Celia’s Stockings,” (Ravelry Link) I created this modest-sized stocking. Knit in the round with worsted weight yarn, this stocking can be easily completed within 2 days. Furthermore, as this pattern does not require complete skeins of Cascade 220, this stocking makes an excellent stashbuster.
The stripes allow for a degree of customization. Stick with the traditional holiday colours, or pick your own favourite colours, your favourite Doctor’s scarf, or your favourite team’s colours (which, when paired with a green or red CC1, will look surprisingly festive).
This pattern assumes familiarity with using DPNs, sock construction, and knitting terminology, and is suitable for an advanced beginner.
Yarn: Cascade 220 or another worsted weight yarn
CC1: cuff, heel, and toe, approx. 60-90 yards.
CC2: name background, approx. 30-50 yards.
MC1: main body stripes, approx 110-130 yards.
MC2: main body stripes, approx 110-130 yards.
Needle: US 7 / 4.5mm
Gauge: 10 sts / 14 rows = 2”/5cm in st st worked in the round.
Measurements: 16”/41cm leg (inc. heel), 9 ¼”/23.5cm foot (inc. heel).
Abbreviations:
K = knit P = purl
PU = pick up and knit Sl 1 pwise = slip 1 st purlwise
st(s) = stitch(es) MC1 = main colour 1
MC2 = main colour 2 CC1 = contrast colour 1
CC2 = contrast colour 2 p2tog = purl 2 sts together
k2tog = knit 2 sts together ssk = slip, slip, knit
st st = stockinette stitch rep = repeat
Note: In order to reduce the number of ends to weave in, catch the non-working MC yarn behind the working MC every few rows. Also, if you’re not using intarsia or fairisle to insert names into the white space (CC2) between the cuff and the beginning of the striped pattern names can be embroidered, duplicate-stitched, etc, later on. Or, you can also leave it blank.
Leg:
CO 56 sts in CC1. Work 6 rnds in 2x2 ribbing. Switch to CC2, k all for 14 rnds. *Switch to MC1, k 7 rnds. Switch to MC2, k 7 rnds. Rep from * 3 more times. For a long stocking, rep more than 3 times.
Heel:
Switch to CC1, cut both MC1 and MC2. Work heel and heel turn in CC1 as follows: k14, turn, sl 1, p27.
Row 1: sl 1 pwise, k to end.
Row 2: sl 1 pwise, p to end.
Rep these 2 rows until 28 rows have been worked, ending with a WS row.
Turn heel:
Row 1: k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: sl 1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: sl 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked. 16 sts remain. Cut CC1.
Gusset:
With MC1, k across all heel sts, PU 15 sts, k across held sts, PU 15 sts, k across first 8 sts of heel. Needles #1 and #4 will have 23 sts each, and needles #2 and #3 will have 14 sts each. Keeping stripe pattern as established on leg, work gusset as follows:
Rnd 1: On needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; k across all instep sts on needles 2 and 3; on needle 4, k1, ssk, k to end.
Rnd 2: K all.
Rep these 2 rounds until 14 sts remain on each needle 1 and 4.
Work in stripe pattern until 2nd MC2 stripe is completed. You will have a total of 4 stripes since the heel. For a longer foot, simply repeat the stripe pattern.
Toe:
Switch to CC1, cut MC1 and MC2.
Rnd 1: Needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on needle 2, k1, ssk, k to end; on needle 3, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle 4, k1, ssk, k to end.
Rnd 2: K all.
Rep 2 rnds until only 28 sts remain (7 on each needle). Rep rnd 1 until only 8 sts remain (2 on each needle). Graft remaining stitches. Weave in ends and tighten up possible holes at the gusset.
Loop:
Using one strand from each colour, make a twisted cord and attach to the heelside of the cuff.
Yay, a new Lady K post! And while the details are absolutely Greek to me, I love the energy and the photo!
ReplyDeleteThis is the first time that I have ever made a sock and I am really enjoying myself. However, I got really confused at one point. After you PU the 15 stiched on the guesset part of the sock, how many stiched should there be on needle 1, needle 2, needle 3 and needle 4? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for the patern, I'm having lots of fun with it!
ReplyDeleteI just have a quick question, this is only my second time turning a heel so I am not really sure what I'm doing. Where the instructions say k16 is this a typo and means to knit 6 as the next row is 5, or am I missing something? As there are only 14 stitches on the heel flap?
Thanks for your help!
@ Jessica:
ReplyDeleteAt this point, you're working a succession of short rows that use up the heel stitches. These rows start in the middle of the heel, which is why the first row has you work 16 sts to get you just past the centre. After working the short rows, you'll be left with 16 sts on your needle.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Kate! After reading your comment I watched a few videos and think I've go tit now. :) Looks like I started things out wrong and didn't pearl the 27 stitches I needed to after starting the heal flap, this created a narrow heal flap with only 14 stitches - not enough to knit 16 as instructed when its time to turn the heel. My bad!
ReplyDelete